Posts tagged Christian Siriano

An Inside Look at NYFW with Eila Mell

Want to know what happens behind-the-scenes at New York Fashion Week runway shows? Just look online. But you want to know what went on behind the camera during the Bryant Park years (1994-2010)? There’s only one place to get it: Eila Mell’s book New York Fashion Week: The Designers, the Models, the Fashions of the Bryant Park Era. From fun facts to fashion rundowns to photos worth more than a thousand words, this book gives us all an inside look into a world of style that became a legacy. We sat down with the author to get her perspective on this year’s shows and all the industry itself.

What are you doing now for NYFW?
This week is an especially crazy week. I’m covering all the shows for FashionWatch.com, and in the meantime I’m working on a new book which will be out in September that is also related to the fashion industry.

Why did you become a fashion journalist? What was your path to getting where you are now?
I’ve had a really crazy career, I started out as an actor and I was unhappy doing that. I decided that I had a passion for writing but wasn’t exactly sure of what my focus was. My first book Casting Might Have Beens was about the film industry. After eight years of research and persistence it was finally published. It’s a real lesson about working hard and it paying off. I’ve always loved fashion and was able to merge my two interests in 2010 when I began working on my third book, New York Fashion Week.

As a fashion journalist, how did you see your role change in covering the shows?
I think that it has evolved. First it was just writing about the shows themselves, and I was writing [New York Fashion Week] at the same time, so I was more of a historian. Now I’m covering the shows with a focus on the current fashions, and what’s going on this season. It’s about the designers, and not so much the history.

What is your favorite part of NYFW?
I love seeing the shows, but I think even a little, tiny bit more than that is seeing people you don’t get to see the rest of the year.

Do you have a favorite designer that you like to see at the shows?
My favorite is Narciso Rodriguez, and Michael Kors, of course.

How do you feel about the newer lines that make it onto the runways?
I love discovering a new designer. I just saw an amazing show by a new designer named Misha Nonoo and she’s incredible. She had a beautiful collection, what I really loved and respected was that her price point was affordable. And there’s no sacrifice of quality. I also think Theodora & Callum is fantastic.

You seem to be very interested in anecdotes, where did you learn about the fashion trivia sprinkled throughout your book?
I interviewed a lot of people in the industry, and that was definitely the main source of information. To round that out, I also combed the archives of Women’s Wear Daily.

These photos are awesome, where did you get them?
My photos were actually going to be [a huge expense]. Then I was interviewing Kelly Cutrone, and she asked who was doing my photos. [When I explained what I was doing], she said, “No you can’t do that.” She called up Roxanne Lowit and Randy Brooke, and told them about the project and asked them if they wanted to work on it. It was such an honor to work with two top photographers.

Bryant Park was always synonymous with NYFW, and it gave a certain air to the shows. To me, Lincoln Center exudes a different vibe as a location, do you agree, and what do you think this means for NYFW?
I think of Bryant Park as one thing. It was in the heart of the fashion industry, right in the center of the city, and it brought in the crowds and a lot of excitement. Once it moved to Lincoln Center, it had a different air. It’s more about the arts. It’s not [necessarily] better, it’s just different.

Besides the obvious creative differences, what do you see has been the biggest (or most shocking) change to NYFW since the beginning?
Absolutely the biggest change has been social media. It’s changed how the industry works, [now] everything is immediate. Before we had to wait for photos, now as soon as the [show happens we get to see it]. Designers have to keep up with it; some of them are even putting [runway] looks immediately into production.

A look from Christian Siriano's NYFW Fall 2012 show

What do you think about live-streaming the shows, is it making them less exclusive?
I think that it’s making fashion more accessible, which is ultimately a good thing. I mean who do you want to reach? The customer. If I’m in Chicago, I can go [online and see the show]. I think it’s fantastic, why not?!

What do you think about Project Runway’s presence in the shows?
I think it’s really had a huge impact on the industry as well as across the country. The show has opened up a dialogue, making people aware of fashion, who probably didn’t know much about the industry before. Christian Siriano has totally broken out, and people don’t even associate him with Project Runway anymore. Daniel Vosovic has broken out as well, the show has given him a great opportunity, and he’s taken seriously by the industry. Emilio Sosa, he’s fantastic, [he debuted] his collection for ESosa [last Friday]. And he just did the costumes for Porgy and Bess on Broadway.

Where do you see fashion week going in the future, whether it’s the look of the clothes, the feel of the show, the way it’s reported (more commercialized, more editorial, etc)?
I think that eventually it might all be through social media. I don’t know, if in 10 years we’re going to have to go to the shows.

Your book includes a lot of discussion on supermodels. We don’t seem to see the same supermodel mentality that we once did in the ‘90s, is that just because we are glorifying the past?
I don’t think so. I think each era has its own personality. There are top models working now, but they are not household names [like in the ‘90s]. The supermodels of the 90s were reflections of their time, which was a time of excess. I am a huge fan of fashion magazines, and I used to always love to see which model got the cover. Now they all use celebrities [to sell magazines].

What do you think of the celebrity culture at the shows? You can almost judge a show before it even starts based on its audience.
That’s right! It’s true, you have to be careful as a designer which celebs you put in your front row. [Celebrity relations have] existed for a long time, it’s not going away. It’s a way for a designer to get his or her name out there, so I understand it.

FashioniSTA File: Emmys 2011

It seemed like this year at the Emmys the stars all shopped and got ready together. Should you be headed to a clone event of this year’s Emmys? Follow the memos below and you’ll fit in like a pro!

1. Wear red. Red satin, red silk, red bed sheets cut as an asymmetrical evening gown. If you happen to be color blind, you might have missed the fact that a good half of the stars showed up wearing red. Although if we can make a suggestion, red satin dresses are coming across a little like a PromGirl photoshoot, so maybe next time opt for something matte.

2. No red? Wear black, or metallic, or some sort of geometric, sequin structured dress. (Did you try to find someone not wearing these color/pattern schemes? A nearly impossible feat.) With the right selection of celebs, you could put together a really nice classic Hollywood photo montage, however, some of the stars were in need desperate of tweaking

3. Straight hair is for no-shows. Waves, curls and up-do’s were on the docket this awards show, giving pin straight locks a night off. Possibly a mass attempt to conserve straight-iron electricity, or possibly a mass realization that the smell of burning hair puts a slight damper on the glamorous atmosphere.

Got the trends, now get our takes on the stars who wore them! The FashioniSTAs round up the style stars and suspects to bring you the picks of the night.

Ashley

Best Dressed: Nina Dobrev in Donna Karan (pictured above) was absolutely stunning, this was hands-down my favorite look of the night. The Vampire Diaries starlet not only blew away her young Hollywood competition, she also beat out every red carpet veteran. There were about a billion celebs in red on Sunday, but she blew them all away. Every detail of her outfit was perfectly tailored to her body, from her form-fitted dress to even the shade of red that complemented her skin tone. The whole look was a modern version of old Hollywood done right, I’m so sick of stars wearing frizzy waves and calling it retro glamour.

Worst Dressed: Taraji P. Henson in Blumarine (right), which is disappointing because she usually looks great. She’s got everything going for her, but this dress was so incredibly unflattering, the only thing that could’ve made it look worse was putting a weird hairpiece on the side of her head. Oh look…a style apocalypse.

Honorable Mention (Best Dressed): Maria Bello in Kaufmanfranco. She’s got a new primetime show and she’s not afraid to show a little life enthusiasm with sparkles (which I can totally appreciate). The sunburst, mosaic print was a risk, but it paid off since the silver was a subtle accent to the white, one-shoulder backdrop. The loose waves were a nice effect, but I think a sleek chignon would have made this look a home run.

Honorable Mention (Worst Dressed): I love Eva La Rue, but her peach, bedazzled dress did her such a disservice. Now I’m all about sparkle, and if I could bedazzle my lunch I probably would, but even I think the sparkle on Eva’s dress looks a little cheap. I get that she’s on CSI: Miami, but South Beach style shouldn’t be allowed on the red carpet.

Leslie

Best Dressed: Nina Dobrev. The Bulgarian beauty queen wore a Donna Karan red body hugging dress. Leave it to DK (yes, we’re on that level) to keep it sultry sexy and simple.  She looked marvelous, sophisticated but you couldn’t ignore those curves! Her wavy hair, diamond necklace and clutch (with a hint of red) complimented every aspect of the dress.  It was a sure fire way to make a show stopping red carpet impression. BRAVO.

Worst Dressed: Paz de la Huerta wearing…I don’t even care to know who! Last time I checked this wasn’t a horror scene from the Pretty in Pink prom scene and even then, her dress was better! She looked cheap enough with the dress and rhinestone heels but she took it to another level with that Airhead Blue lipstick, WOOF.

Honorable Mention (Best Dressed): Claire Danes in a beautiful Oscar de la Renta. I’ve always thought Claire played it safe and normally sticks to the color pallets of the celebratory night but she really out did herself. The strapless blue/black sequin embroidered gown with a defined black eye liner enhanced her beautiful blue eyes. I think it was a great choice and I can’t wait to see more!

Honorable Mention (Worst Dressed): Heidi Klum in Christian Siriano (right). Trust me when I say I’m a huge fan of this woman but I can’t seem to love this dress. It looks like a huge coral reef.  I do like the idea of showing off her legs because next to her stomach it’s her best attribute but this color choice washes her out as well. You can’t get any more Supermodel than Heidi; I’ve just seen her in the best of the best and this is not it.

Kim

Best Dressed:  Kaley Cuoco in Romona Keveza (shown, right).  Perhaps I’m just a sucker for anything vintage-inspired, but I thought that this tea-length one-shoulder gathered tulle ensemble looked just elegant enough for an awards show but had enough whimsical fun to bring it to an Emmy-worthy level.  In a sea of colorful simple classics, this piece was a standout. Loved the pops of red in her accessories, as well.
Worst Dressed: Phoebe Price in her own creation.  As the British crooner Mika lovingly sings, “big girl, you are beautiful”… just NOT in that dress.  Waaaaaaaaaaaay too much fabric in bizarre band-aid like patterns just works to enhance the fact that you are not a size 2.  Size doesn’t have to be an issue on the red carpet… unless you make it one.

Honorable Mention (Best Dressed):  TIE!  1) Sofia Vergara in Vera Wang — the dress itself was nothing all that spectacular, but the way that it fit her curves was jaw-dropping perfection. Va-Va-Voom! 2)  Evan Rachel Wood in Elie Saab — while Maria Menounos wore an almost identical dress, Wood wins in this glamathon race.  Why go for cheap sequins when you can get an even better effect with gorgeous beadwork and an up-do?  Welcome back from the dead, Wood.

Honorable Mention (Worst Dressed):  So many. I always feel like it’s easier to find the flubs than the fantastic, and this ceremony was no exception.  1) Christina Hendricks in Johanna Johnson?  I know you have boobs, honey, but can you even breathe with them so tightly bandaged up against your body??  Plus, the color just washes her out and the beading pattern just made her look wider than normal. 2) Jayma Mays in Zuhair Murad looked like a cupcake, and I’m pretty sure I’ve seen better versions of that dress on Toddlers & Tiaras.

Kristen

Best Dressed: Jennifer Carpenter in Tony Ward Couture – LOVED! She looked like a knockout (hello, that slit!) and it was so nice to see her outside of the pant suits she wears on Dexter.

Worst Dressed: Gwyneth Paltrow in Pucci. I wanted to love it, but could not get past that upper mid-section cut out (ugh!). Without that I think it would have been a great dress, but with the midriff-bearing piece it became an instant disaster. I’m all for her trying to push the envelope, but crop tops on the red carpet are not the way to go.

Honorable Mention (Best Dressed): Julie Bowen in Oscar de la Renta – the plunging v-neck and the sparkle accents worked so perfectly together. It was a great silhouette with her body, and the whole ensemble was clean and modern, with just the right amount of shine. This dress definitely made her an Emmy style winner in addition to the gold statues she went home with.

Honorable Mention (Worst Dressed): Katie Holmes in Calvin Klein – this was so boring! And between the belt, the fit and the bird nest on top of her head, the whole look was really not flattering. I can understand her wanting to be slightly understated since she wasn’t a nominee, but this is still a red carpet event. It might be her bazillionth trip down the carpet, but that this look was more suited for the beach.

Alex McCord, Blog #2 from NYFW!

Weekend

Here’s what I love about fashion week – the opportunity to see what’s new and exciting from creative people we know, and discovery of designers we didn’t know before.

Friday was a “hit it hard” work day, after which we stopped in at Magalis Garcia’s presentation.  Her work is gorgeous; I wore quite a bit of it on our show, and I was thrilled for her that Vogue attended!  My favorite detail is her obsession with one-shouldered dresses, one that I share…  On the way home, we stopped in for a sec to Christian Siriano & Brad Walsh’s after-party to say hi – life moves so fast that we realized we hadn’t seen them in person since last fashion week.  I was thrilled to see that Brad has started a line of rings, tried one on and can’t wait to see more!

Haute Hippie

Saturday was hectic – we began at Georges Chakra, whom we have grown to love over the last year.  My favorite pieces were the mohair-draped tops over trousers, and the cocktail dresses with sexy mesh cutouts.  I love cutouts covered in mesh – you get the low-cut wow factor without worrying about having a wardrobe malfunction.  Next was a quick run downtown to Loris Diran, a good friend and great designer.  I really loved his use of copper tones, the foiled silk shirt over wool trousers with a copper thread in them.  His menswear was really beautiful and wearable – Simon kept elbowing me during the show,which is van Kempen sign language for “I love that.”  There was a lace showstopping gown which I’m going to wear somewhere, and we were off and back uptown for lunch.  Next was the Academy of Arts University show, which I love attending.  There were 6 graduating designers showing, and all were fearless and fabulous, from Marina Solomatnikova’s suede suits to Steven Oo’s amazing knitwear.  As the sun set it was off to Zang Toi, who thrilled us with his intricate beading and lush glamour.  Charcoal and purple cashmere were the signature looks of this collection, with slick hair under fedoras – what a beautiful show.  Finally, we stopped in at the Suno & Haute Hippie presentations – Suno’s eclectic looks with the mixture of texture and color were to die for, although I might not braid my hair up so high!  Haute Hippie was fun – they sell on 5F in Bergdorf’s, but even if you don’t have a Bergdorf’s budget you can recreate these awesome looks with classic pieces from your closet (or from Second Time Around!)  My favorite look was a solid tank top with ropes of pearls over a ruffly skirt.

Binetti

Sunday was much calmer, though we learned a lesson.  Never, ever leave a fashion show, because the gossip rags will kill you.  After arriving early at Lela Rose and finding we didn’t have seat assignments, we opted to leave and use the hour to take care of something totally non-fashion week related, versus waiting to be assigned seats.  Suddenly gossip hounds gleefully reported that we were thrown out.  Oy.  Lesson learned – if they offer to put you backstage and seat you later, stay.  What was the thing we had to take care of?  Simon’s sister had called from Budapest – her friend’s cousin in Queens hadn’t been heard from in weeks and they wanted us to make sure she was still alive.  We drove out to Jackson Heights, knocked on her door while fervently hoping this wasn’t going to turn into an episode of Law & Order and confirmed that yes, she was fine, just hadn’t called home in a while.  Mission accomplished; now back to fashion.  We had the more-or-less obligatory brunch at the Bryant Park Grill and then attended Diego Binetti’s show at Exit Art and fell in love with his 20’s movie star detailing, and sunburst fabrics.

Overall we’re seeing throwbacks to old school glamour, which is refreshing.  As I said to somebody last night, I think with the economic situation we’ve all been living through, designers wanted to cheer us up with lush metallic colors, velvety luxurious fabrics, mohair and vibrant mixes of texture and layering.  Most, if not all, these looks can be duplicated at your neighborhood Second Time Around.  So far, so good!  ~Alex

Suno